 In
the monsoon months, the backwaters reverberate with the sound
of the traditional snake boat races, featuring the 130-feet-long
chundan boats. Up to 16 of them, with over a hundred rowers
each, compete for the honors during the races. The most important
of these races is the Nehru Trophy Boat Race held on the second
Saturday of August. The Aranmula Boat Festival of the Parthasarathy
temple of Aranmula, on the banks of the holy river Pamba,
is the more traditional race. The boat carnival starts on
the day of Thiruonam, the most auspicious day of the Kerala
festival, Onam.
The Vallamkali (boat race) is one of the
main attractions of Onam, and is best seen at Aranmulai and
Kottayam. About a hundred oarsmen row huge and graceful odee
(boats). Oars dip and flash to the rhythm of drums and cymbals
in each boat. The songs are generally typical in character
and concern people well known in Malabar. Above each boat
gleam scarlet silk umbrellas: their number denotes the affluence
of the family owning the boat. Gold coins and tassels hang
from the umbrellas.
In the evening girls perform the Kaikottikkali
(Thiruvathirakkali) in the open, dancing around the traditional
brass lamp.
Onam, the principal festival of Kerala, is
celebrated against a setting of lush green vegetation. This
picturesque harvest festival brings ten days of colour feasting,
boat races, song and dance to the state.
According to legend, the state's most colourful
festival, Onam celebrates the golden age of King Mahabali,
the mythical ruler of Kerala. The festival is to welcome the
spirit of King Mahabali, and to assure him that his people
are happy and wish him well. The myth goes like this:
The
Devas or Gods were worried over the wise and good rule of
Mahabali, the Asura king, thinking that he might become too
powerful. They sought the help of Vishnu (the preserver in
the Hindu trinity) to curb Mahabali's power. Vishnu, in the
form of a dwarf called Vamana, approached him and had been
offered a boon by the king. The Vamana asked for three paces
of land and the king agreed to it. Soon the dwarf began to
expand and with the first step, he covered the sky, blotting
out the stars, and with the second, he straddled the nether
world. Realising that the Vamana's third step will destroy
the earth, Mahabali offered his head as the last step. The
Gods were glad, but since Mahabali was so attached to his
kingdom and the subjects and was very much loved by the people,
he was allowed to return once a year.
Onam (Thiruonam) is considered to be the
day when King Mahabali comes from exile to visit his beloved
people.
The festivity begins ten days before Thiruonam,
by putting floral decorations (Pookkalam) on every home. At
Trichur (Thrissur), caparisoned elephants take part in a spectacular
procession. A magnificent display of fireworks marks the end
of the festivities here. At Cheruthuruthy, appreciative crowds
gather on the green, where the Kathakali dancers, resplendent
in their brilliant costumes, re-enact the well-loved stories
of the epic heroes and virtuous women. Pulikali, also known
as Kaduvakali is a common sight during Onam season. Performers
painted like tigers in bright yellow, red and black, dance
to the beats of instruments like udukku and thakil.
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